Friday, May 20, 2011

Snooze, Denver

Given the rapture is due tomorrow, coming to steal your sinning souls, it’s a good thing I made it to Snooze recently. But then again, should I happen to linger until October 21 (the “backup rapture”) maybe it’ll be easier to get a table.

Snooze, an A.M. Eatery, has been on the gotta-try short list for months, ever since 5280 Magazine and friends touted this breakfast/lunch only spot. The problem with great buzz, word of mouth and being open for business just until 2:30p.m. is the wait. It can be hours. So early one Thursday morning on the way to the airport, and anticipating less foot traffic, took a chance on Snooze.

And I’m part of the in crowd now.

Facing several hours airborne, and not one who’s a fan on bringing food on a plane, I bucked healthy egg white omelet tradition and ordered the Breakfast Pot Pie (homemade rosemary sausage gravy over flaky puff pastry, topped with an egg your style and hash browns).

Gravy is a pleasure and treat; gravy over heavy-carb-loaded biscuits a diet anomaly.

So how’d they get this dish to taste so light?

The puff pasty crispy and airy, exploding into flakes under each fork dig.

The white gravy creamy but not overly dense, full of white pepper, woodsy rosemary and delicate – yeah I said it – bites of crumbled sausage. The carrots and celery were a sweet and homey surprise. Served next to a perfectly-sized mound of potatoes, more hashpuck than traditional flat browns and so good I finished every bite.

Unable to decide between a couple menu items, our sever suggested half orders each of the Corned Beef Hash (shredded hash mixed with locally made corned beef, caramelized poblanos and onions.) and the Bella! Bella! Benny (thin slices of prosciutto, Taleggio cheese and poached eggs on toasted ciabatta, topped with cream cheese hollandaise, balsamic glaze and arugula.) The Benedict, as good it read on paper and ate in real life, was overshadowed by the hash – an absolute triumph. Salty meat shredded and not chewy, potatoes crisp all around (no searching for the favorite burnt edge) with a sweet spicy touch of onions and peppers. Next time, a full order.

And a big ass bloody, absolutely the Bugs Bloody (pepper infused vodka and a shot of Odwalla Carrot Juice.)

I’m not a sweet morning eater, preferring eggs and bacon to French toast or anything powdered sugary. But I want to take off on a Snooze Pancake Flight; your choice of any three flavors. Already calling 1) Pineapple Upside Down Pancakes (caramelized pineapple chunks with housemade vanilla crème anglaise and cinnamon butter), 2) the signature Sweet Potato (topped with homemade caramel, pecans and ginger butter) and 3) the Red Velvet (red velvet buttermilk pancakes with a touch of cream cheese frosting, praline syrup and chopped pecans). Would be lovely to try with a group, a bite or two from each because like Sophie can I really choose?

The coffee, an exclusive Guatemala blend, strong and slightly bitter like good diner coffee, ready to be milked up or watered down to taste. The small grapefruit juice (fresh-squeezed) was served in a glass as tall as my head. Loads of eye opening adult beverages on the specialty menu, too, featuring local liquors from Leopold Bros. I didn’t imbibe, having to keep sharp to elbow a prime seat on Southwest (hands up, who else is amused by lining up in order, like you did for the school bus?)

Snooze delivers big and tasty belly fillers at Denny’s prices, by an engaging staff who help you quickly through your meal without ever feeling rushed or hustled. I get the hype around Snooze. And yep, I'm going back. After tomorrow.

Hell, good breakfast is a sign that God/Buddha/Yahweh loves us.


Lisa said...

When we went there, I ordered Corned Beef and Hash on a whim--I've never even ordered it before. Oh goodness, it was amazing. Everyone else had super sweet things--also good--but I'm like you, I want a salty breakfast. I can't wait to go back.

Lilly Sue said...

Oh, Snooze...My first love lol Snooze has so many good eats! I have been slacking on posting about it though...when I go I just think about eating, and by the time I remember to take a picture my plate is licked clean! :)